By John Cloe
Ten of us, including six
intrepid Alaskans, recently completed the first commercial tour of World War II
military sites in the Aleutians, organized by Valor Tours of Sausalito,
California. Our goal included determining the feasibility of safely visiting World
War II historic sites in remote and difficult to reach places. Our trip was
more of an expedition than your normal tour of well-groomed Civil War
battlefields.
The tour commemorated the
70th anniversary of the ending of the Aleutian Campaign and included visits to
the Attu and Kiska Historic Landmarks and the B-24D Liberator crash site on
Atka Island listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Additionally, the Aleutian
have the distinction of having three sites listed as World War II Valor in the
Pacific National Monuments. Of a total of nine, including five in Hawaii and
one in California, the Aleutian ones are the most difficult to visit. The three
sites encompass the battlefield remnants on Attu, the Japanese occupation sites
on Kiska, and the B-24 on Adak. Attu and Kiska are uninhabited and the B-24
site is at the far end on Atka Island with no road access from Atka Village on
the east side.
We flew to Adak on June 20
on one of the twice-weekly Alaska Airlines passenger and cargo flights,
arriving in rain, wind and cold.
On arrival, we toured the
World War II and Cold War sites, where we viewed the slow deterioration of
unused facilities. They included the Old Bering Hill Chapel, listed by The
Alaska Association for Historic Preservation among the “Ten Most Endangered
Historic Properties for 2013.”
We then boarded the custom
designed 72-foot steel hulled M/V Puk-Uk, owned and operated by Billy Choate,
Alaska Marine Expeditions, based in Homer, and headed out into an Aleutian
storm, stopping in Gusty Bay, Tanaga, to wait for the storm to pass.
The group, however,
decided to press on despite the heavy swells. We were rewarded by reaching
Kiska Harbor in calm conditions. We spent time ashore visiting the former Japanese
occupation sites including many of the guns, ranging from 6-inch naval guns to
anti-aircraft machine guns, and three beached Japanese transports. The place is
like a museum.
From there, we proceeded
in calm weather to Attu, watching wildlife along the way and passing the secret
Air Force base on Shemya. We went ashore on Attu at the former Aleut village in
Chichagof Harbor, explored the West Arm in Holtz Bay, walked the length of the
abandoned runway at the former Coast Guard base in Massacre Bay where we read the
inscriptions on four memorial plaques, and hiked to the Peace Memorial
installed by the Japanese on Engineer Hill.
We stopped along the way
to visit and read the interpretive panels and memorial to Joe Martinez, the
only man to earn the Congressional Medal of Honor during the Aleutian Campaign.
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife personnel had installed the panels and plaque early
in June.
While we were on Engineer
Hill eating our sack lunches, a twin-engine turboprop flew over. I don’t know who
was more surprised in that remote area. On the way back to our pickup point in
Navy Cove, we met a Japanese couple, a priest and a guide heading for Engineer
Hill for a memorial service for the Japanese war dead on Attu. The battlefield
apparently has more meaning to the Japanese. In addition to the Peace Memorial,
the Japanese have placed four other smaller memorials in the area.
We left Attu with another
storm approaching us from the southwest. While aboard the Puk-Uk, we watched
DVDs, read, discussed the war in the Aleutians and what we had seen, spent time
on the spacious bridge watching the incredible Aleutian scenery and wildlife,
ate gourmet meals prepared by our cook, celebrated her birthday during a party
organized by Ron Inouye, enjoyed wine and beer, and slept in comfortable bunks.
If anyone was seasick from the violently pitching and rolling vessel, they kept
their misery to themselves.
While en route to Dutch
Harbor, our end-of-tour destination, we went ashore in Beechevin Bay, Atka, and
hiked the short distance to the B-24 site where John Andrews and Louis Blau had
made a wheels-up landing in the approaching darkness of December 1942. They
were unable to land elsewhere due to weather. Sadly, we found many parts
missing from this historic relic. They apparently had been taken by scavengers
seeking parts for the restoration of other B-24s.
We arrived at Dutch Harbor
on a beautiful morning July 2. Our group toured the former Navy base and nearby
Unalaska, spent the night at the Grand Aleutian Hotel, and departed on July 3
on a Pen Air flight back to Anchorage.
There were a number of
lessons learned from the trip: the need to be physically fit, the requirement
that only small, well-led groups can safely visit many of the sites, and the
ability to adapt to a remote environment and respect its conditions.
Currently, the next trip
is planned for June 2014. Six people have put down deposits for the trip and
another fifteen have expressed interest. The tour has not been advertised. It’s
a once-in-a-lifetime adventure in a seldom-visited, remote area of our planet.
Sounds great--I'd like more info on the 2014 tour!
ReplyDeleteWow. What a trip. One that is in my sights for 2015....
ReplyDelete