By Anjuli Grantham
Hoop houses have replaced Quonset
huts as the most commonly sighted semi-circular structures in Kodiak these
days, as gardeners have taken full advantage of USDA tax credits to promote
food self-sufficiency. Now, one can eat fresh salad greens throughout the
winter that were not shipped in a container van from Seattle. And although
Kodiak gardeners are vaguely aware of the fact that people have been gardening
in Kodiak for awhile, people are generally surprised to learn that Kodiak has
what is likely the longest agricultural history in the state.
Gardens surround the homes
at Afognak Village in this
turn-of-the-century photograph. Image courtesy
Kodiak
Historical Society, P-503-10.
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Ok- admittedly it was at the Three
Saint Bay settlement on Kodiak Island that the first garden was planted, which
was also the first Russian settlement in Alaska. These early fur traders attempted
to plant barley, rye, and other crops that solidly failed. Yet, from this inauspicious
beginning, Russian Orthodox missionaries carried seeds with them as they
travelled and other Russians established gardens in the villages or forts where
they were stationed. Further research is required to discover who it was that
started using seaweed as a fertilizer in their garden beds, but to this day
"beach peat" is the preferred locally available fertilizer in many
parts of coastal Alaska. It was likely one of these early Orthodox
missionaries.
In 1835, agriculture received an
injection in the Russian colonies, and particularly in the Kodiak region, when
the czar sanctioned the establishment of the colonial settler class. These were
Russian-American Company employees that had started families in Alaska and had
no desire, or little financial ability, to return to Russia at the end of their
contracts. These individuals were given food, tools, and agricultural
implements and sent to retiree villages that had been established on Spruce
Island and Afognak Island within the Kodiak Archipelago and Ninilchik. It was
hoped that these retirees would establish prosperous farming villages and that
they would sell their produce to the RAC, mitigating some of the provisioning
problems that forever haunted the colony. It worked to a small degree- families
from Afognak Village sold potatoes, turnips, and rutabagas to the neighboring
St. Paul (present day Kodiak) and even exported their produce to Sitka. By the
end of the Russian era, the Kodiak district supplied more produce to feed the
colonies than any other Alaskan district.
In the earliest years of American
ownership of Alaska, Afognak was regarded as the agricultural hub of the
territory. In 1886, Henry Elliott claimed that Afognak Village had more acreage
under cultivation than all the rest of Alaska, noting that potatoes, turnips, cabbages
and radishes were under cultivation. He also noted the cows, chickens, and
domesticated ducks that roamed the village. Outside visitors to Afognak nearly
always commented upon the gardens, noting the use of seaweed as fertilizer.
Recently I feasted on a Kodiak specialty, a salmon pie known as pirok, with a
family who has roots in Afognak. It is no wonder that their family's version of
the dish includes grated rutabaga, carrots, and cabbage.
Local gardeners dig their
patches out from underneath Novarupta’s
volcanic ash in 1912. Image courtesy
Kodiak Historical Society, P-386-41.
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Kodiak continued to be known for its
agricultural prowess prior to the 1912 eruption at Katmai, which buried the
island with several feet of ash. After the three days of ash fall, residents
quickly got out their shovels and spades and excavated their garden plots,
attempting to salvage the new potato shoots and rhubarb plants. To this day,
gardeners who plant directly in the dirt instead of a raised bed will have
plenty of Katmai ash to contend with.
Heirloom varietals of rhubarb,
raspberries, and strawberries still take root in Kodiak today, although
potatoes and other root crops have proven more elusive to locate for this
novice gardener. Yet, I am more than content with my pirok and rhubarb crisp,
feasting on locally grown produce and locally grown history at the same time.
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